Continuing with the Krad

I continued to build the rear of the Kettenkrad, adding the rails on both sides and the exhaust (which was completely missing in the kit). I also started to glue the overlapping road wheels of the running gear together, to avoid later problems with adjusting the wheels precisely. The whole array of wheels can still be removed from the axles to faciliate painting:

Kettenkrad riders

The Kettenkrad scene features four soldiers sitting on the back of the Krad, and on the trailer. These figures will be sculpted next. For the driver figure, I plan to use the converted driver from the Kettenkrad kit.

I start again with the armatures from brass wire, this time soldering the wires also together. Then I add some Milliput and the boots. The two figures that will be seated the lowest on the Krad have already been formed into their poses, with some Milliput used to stabilize the legs. The last pictures show how the two guys will be seated.

Progressing with the interior

The gearbox is now finished, and glued into the hull together with the engine. Adding all the small details was actually a lot of fun. I then pushed the bent side parts a bit apart using a piece ofthick styrene sheet, added the fasteners of the stowage boxes on both sides, and finally glued the bench on its place at the back. I also soldered together a frame holding the hatches that regulate the cooling air intake (located below the bench), and glued it into the hull. On the last pictures, the driver’s seat can be seen with its mount, also soldered together from scratch. The pin will be fitted into the lower part of the mount to fix the seat permanently later on.

Started to build the Kettenkrad

In the meantime, I started to work on the Krad. First, I collected some reference pictures from still existing vehicles, together with all wartime sources I could find.

Then I started to build the body. As the details of the Dragon kit are rather poor, there is some substantial detailing needed. I removed some parts on the back that will be recreated from brass rods, hollowed the fenders with my Dremel tool and put some parts together for the basic shape of the model. As can be seen from the picture taken from the front of the vehicle, the sides are bent a little, which will be corrected by adding the engine cover and the bench on the back. Also quite some filling and sanding will be needed:

The engine is fairly detailed, and as I will not leave the engine cover open, this should be ok. But the gearbox, the support for the seat and all the mechanical parts underneath the driver’s seat are very poorly modelled, i. e. most of them are completely missing. So I took my references, and started to build the gearbox from scratch:

Adding the trousers

The next step is to refine the body proportions by sanding and adding more Magic Sculp. I also started to rework the resin boots in the areas where they have been cut to allow for flexible poses, and to sculpt the trousers:

Stabilizing the poses

Now Magic Sculp is added to the wires to stabilize the poses, and to provide a basis for further refinement of the body proportions. It does not have to be nice, only stick to the wires…

Armatures for scale figure sculpting

I just started to redo the figures that go with the Panzer I and the PaK 37. Here, I would like to show how I build up my figures.

I start with building an armature from wire. I take two pieces of wire (e. g. brass, 0.6mm), and twist them together to form the “spine” (pictures 1 and 2). I then bend the arms and legs (picture 3), and add a “neck” made from a short piece of wire to the spine (picture 4). Finally, I partially fix the armature by adding a “pelvis” and a “chest” from Magicsculp (picture 5):

To get the size of the armature right, I searched on Google for a skeleton picture used by artists to help in painting humans. This was then scaled to 1/35 scale and printed. So I can check the appropriate size of my armature by simply placing it on the printout.